The Longevity Library

Amino acids are the molecular foundation of collagen, elastin, keratin, filaggrin, and virtually every other structural protein that determines skin and hair health. In topical skincare, they function across several simultaneous pathways: as natural moisturizing factor (NMF) components that maintain barrier hydration; as antioxidants that protect against oxidative damage; and as direct precursors to the proteins that give skin its firmness and hair its strength.

Key amino acids in skin science include glycine and proline (the most abundant amino acids in collagen, critical for its triple-helix structure); lysine (essential for collagen crosslinking via lysyl oxidase); arginine (supports wound healing and nitric oxide production); and betaine (a powerful osmolyte and anti-inflammatory agent shown to reduce visible redness and strengthen barrier function). Serine and alanine contribute to the skin's natural moisturizing factor.

In haircare, amino acids — particularly cysteine, methionine, and the full keratin precursor set — penetrate the hair cortex to reinforce the disulfide bonds that determine hair tensile strength. They reduce porosity, repair heat-damaged keratin linkages, and smooth the cuticle at a structural level that conditioning agents alone cannot achieve. The result is hair that behaves differently — not just temporarily softened, but genuinely stronger.

Astaxanthin is a xanthophyll carotenoid derived from Haematococcus pluvialis microalgae. Its free-radical-quenching capacity has been measured at up to 6,000 times greater than vitamin C, 550 times greater than vitamin E, and 75 times greater than alpha-lipoic acid in independent comparative studies. We source an oleoresin-standardized extract that delivers consistent, verified potency in every batch — because raw astaxanthin sources vary enormously, and standardization ensures what is written in the formula is what reaches your skin.

What distinguishes astaxanthin from every other antioxidant is its molecular structure: it spans both the inner and outer cell membrane simultaneously, neutralizing free radicals on both sides at once. It works through three simultaneous pathways — activating the Nrf2/ARE pathway to upregulate the skin's own antioxidant enzymes; suppressing NF-κB-driven inflammation; and inhibiting the collagen-degrading MMPs while stimulating TGF-β-driven collagen synthesis.

A 2024 review in Aging Pathobiology and Therapeutics confirmed significant evidence for astaxanthin in inhibiting wrinkle formation, improving elasticity, brightening skin tone, and promoting collagen production. Longevity research has noted that as a Nrf2 activator and mitochondrial protectant, it is among the most clinically compelling actives in the emerging longevity cosmeceutical space.

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid found in grains (wheat, barley, rye) and produced by skin microbes. In dermatology, it has been used clinically for decades under prescription names for rosacea and acne. Maya Chia was among the first clean beauty brands to bring azelaic acid to the mainstream market — before it became broadly understood, it was a hidden skincare gem found mostly in the dermatologist's office.

Its efficacy rests on a rare combination of three simultaneous mechanisms: anti-inflammatory (reducing the cytokine signaling that drives rosacea flushing and inflammatory acne); antibacterial (specifically active against Cutibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus epidermidis); and anti-pigmentation (inhibiting tyrosinase and targeting abnormally active melanocytes without affecting normally functioning ones — a precision that makes it ideal for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and melasma).

Unlike many brightening or exfoliating acids, azelaic acid is pH-independent in its efficacy and does not carry the irritation or photosensitivity risk of AHAs or retinoids. It is one of the few actives with documented evidence for rosacea, blemishes, and pigmentation — three concerns that frequently appear together — making it exceptionally versatile for sensitive, reactive, and combination skin types.

Bakuchiol is a meroterpene compound derived from the seeds and leaves of Psoralea corylifolia — the babchi plant, used in Ayurvedic medicine for centuries. Its relevance to modern skincare lies in a remarkable molecular coincidence: bakuchiol activates retinol receptors and upregulates the same collagen-promoting genes as retinol (COL1A1, COL1A2, COL3A1), while doing so through a completely different chemical pathway.

A landmark double-blind clinical study published in the British Journal of Dermatology compared bakuchiol directly to 0.5% retinol and found comparable improvements in fine lines, wrinkle depth, pigmentation, and elasticity — with significantly less irritation, dryness, and photosensitivity. Bakuchiol also inhibits MMP-1 (the primary collagen-degrading enzyme) and has documented anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties that make it genuinely well-suited to sensitive, reactive, and rosacea-prone skin.

Because bakuchiol does not carry the photosensitivity risk of retinoids, it can be used morning and evening, throughout the year, and is generally considered suitable for use during pregnancy — a significant clinical advantage. At Maya Chia, it is used in formulas where retinol's full biochemical mechanism is desired without the skin-barrier compromise that precedes adaptation.

Derived from Salvia hispanica L., chia seed oil holds a singular distinction: it is the richest known plant source of omega-3 alpha-linolenic acid (ALA), comprising 58–65% of the oil's total fatty acid composition. ALA is essential — the body cannot synthesize it — and works at the level of cell membranes to support the ceramides and intercellular lipids that form the skin's outermost protective layer.

Our supercritical CO₂ extract is produced through precisely controlled temperature and pressure, yielding ALA and linoleic acid concentrations five to six times higher than standard cold-pressed chia oil. No heat damage, no solvent residue — a molecularly intact extract that is clinically active at concentrations as low as 0.1%.

Together with linoleic acid (omega-6), ALA forms what researchers call "Vitamin F" — the pair of essential fatty acids shown to activate Protein Phosphatase 2A (PP2A), a master regulatory enzyme directly linked to skin barrier integrity and aquaporin-driven moisture retention. A 2024 study in the International Journal of Molecular Sciences confirmed that chia seed bioactives inhibit specific skin-aging enzymes involved in collagen breakdown.

Retinol is the most extensively studied cosmeceutical ingredient in the history of skincare, with decades of peer-reviewed evidence confirming its ability to stimulate cellular renewal, increase collagen production, improve skin thickness, and visibly reduce fine lines, wrinkles, and uneven texture. Its limitations — photosensitivity, oxidative instability, and an adaptation period characterized by redness and flaking — have historically limited its accessibility.

Encapsulation changes that equation. By enclosing retinol within a protective polymer or lipid shell, the ingredient is shielded from light and air during storage, preventing the oxidative degradation that renders unencapsulated retinol inactive before it reaches the skin. Once applied, the capsules undergo a slow, controlled release that delivers retinol at a steady, measured rate — minimizing the initial skin response while maintaining full clinical efficacy.

Maya Chia's encapsulated retinol is formulated without BHT (butylhydroxytoluene) — the synthetic antioxidant stabilizer used in many retinol products. The encapsulation itself provides the necessary stability, producing a formula that performs at the level of conventional retinol while respecting even more reactive skin types. It is recommended for evening use, with consistent SPF in the morning.

Exosomes are nanoscale extracellular vesicles (40–160 nanometers) secreted by virtually every cell type in the body. They serve as the primary vehicle for cell-to-cell communication — carrying a sophisticated cargo of proteins, growth factors, lipids, and nucleic acids (RNA and DNA) that can directly modulate the behavior of recipient cells. In skin, this means exosomes derived from healthy stem cells can instruct aging or damaged skin cells to behave more like their younger counterparts.

Stem cell-derived exosomes — particularly from mesenchymal stem cells (MSCs) and adipose-derived stem cells (ADSCs) — have demonstrated the ability to increase collagen I and elastin production, decrease MMP-1 expression, reduce oxidative stress, reverse fibroblast senescence, and protect against UV-induced damage. A prospective clinical trial from the Mayo Clinic involving 56 participants across a 6-week protocol found statistically significant reductions in wrinkles, redness, and melanin, and improvements in luminosity and skin coloration using a platelet-exosome product.

Exosomes represent a meaningful advancement over both stem cell extracts and conventional growth factors: they deliver a complete, biologically organized signaling payload in a membrane-protected vehicle that is more precisely internalized by recipient cells. The field is evolving rapidly — clinical evidence is accumulating, and formulation science is advancing to improve stability and bioavailability for topical applications.

Growth factors are naturally occurring proteins secreted by fibroblasts, keratinocytes, and endothelial cells to coordinate cell proliferation, differentiation, migration, and survival. They are the communication infrastructure through which the skin manages collagen synthesis, wound repair, and tissue maintenance. As skin ages, both the quantity and signaling efficiency of endogenous growth factors declines — and the dermis shows it.

The key growth factors in cosmeceutical science include EGF (Epidermal Growth Factor), which regulates cellular proliferation and has been shown in published clinical trials to significantly improve skin texture, brown spots, and wrinkle appearance within 12 weeks; TGF-β (Transforming Growth Factor-Beta), the primary driver of dermal collagen synthesis; FGF (Fibroblast Growth Factor), which activates fibroblasts to produce collagen, elastin, and glycosaminoglycans; and VEGF, which supports the microcirculation essential for nutrient delivery.

A 2023 systematic review in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology evaluated 23 topical growth factor preparations and concluded that administration of topical growth factor preparations is effective for facial skin rejuvenation based on investigator- and participant-reported outcomes. In Maya Chia's Maturing Serum (in development), growth factors form part of a multi-pathway approach alongside astaxanthin, senolytic peptides, and our supercritical chia seed oil.

Hexylresorcinol is a resorcinol derivative with a robust clinical record in skin brightening, offering a level of tyrosinase inhibition that independent research has measured as more potent than kojic acid at equivalent concentrations. Its mechanism is multi-targeted: it inhibits both tyrosinase and peroxidase activity in the melanin synthesis pathway, reducing pigment production at two distinct steps rather than one — a meaningful advantage over single-pathway brightening agents.

Beyond its anti-pigmentation action, hexylresorcinol has documented antioxidant properties that protect existing skin tone from the oxidative reactions triggered by UV exposure and environmental stress. This dual function — preventing new pigmentation while neutralizing the oxidative signals that initiate it — makes it particularly effective for addressing stubborn hyperpigmentation that has not responded fully to single-mechanism brighteners.

Hexylresorcinol is well tolerated across skin types and does not carry the skin-lightening risks associated with hydroquinone. It works compatibly alongside tranexamic acid, vitamin C derivatives, and niacinamide, allowing for a comprehensive multi-pathway approach to uneven skin tone. Its stability in formulation is strong, and it remains active across a broad pH range — a practical advantage for formulators building brightening systems with multiple actives.

Longevity skincare is defined by a shift in target: rather than addressing only visible signs, it addresses the biological hallmarks that produce them. These include mitochondrial dysfunction, cellular senescence, NAD+ depletion, epigenetic drift, and the chronic low-grade inflammation known as inflammaging — processes identified in landmark research by López-Otín et al. (2023) as primary drivers of biological aging.

NAD+ and niacinamide: NAD+ (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide) declines approximately 50% between age 30 and 60, impairing DNA repair, mitochondrial function, and sirtuin activity. Niacinamide (vitamin B3) is a well-documented NAD+ precursor with decades of safety and efficacy data. At 5%, it measurably improves barrier function, reduces hyperpigmentation, and supports cellular energy in aging skin.

Senolytic peptides selectively clear senescent cells — the "zombie cells" that accumulate with age and drive inflammaging — by modulating BCL-2 pathways, restoring the regenerative environment in aging tissue. Ergothioneine is the cell's principal energizing antioxidant: it restores mitochondrial function, quenches free radicals, and supports structural protein production. Its levels decline sharply with age, and its replenishment measurably improves skin's responsiveness to every other active in a formula.

Peptides are short chains of amino acids — fragments of the proteins the skin uses to maintain structure, barrier integrity, and cellular function. In skincare, they function as signaling molecules that communicate repair messages directly to fibroblasts, keratinocytes, and hair follicle cells, triggering specific biological responses without requiring the skin to adapt as it does with retinoids.

Peptides are classified by mechanism: signal peptides (such as palmitoyl pentapeptide) stimulate collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid synthesis; neurotransmitter inhibitor peptides (such as acetyl hexapeptide) reduce the appearance of expression lines by moderating muscle contraction at the skin surface; and enzyme inhibitor peptides protect existing collagen by blocking the proteases that degrade it.

In haircare, peptides penetrate the hair shaft to fortify the keratin structure, reduce breakage at the cortex level, and seal the cuticle — producing hair that is measurably stronger, smoother, and more resistant to thermal and environmental damage. A 2025 review in PMC confirmed peptides as among the most active and well-tolerated ingredients available for both skin senescence prevention and hair structure improvement.

Stem cells in skincare work through a precisely understood mechanism: they do not implant into the skin, but instead supply bioactive signaling molecules — growth factors, cytokines, peptides, and exosomes — that activate the skin's resident epidermal and dermal stem cells to increase their own renewal and repair activity. As we age, the signaling environment that maintains this activity weakens. Topical stem cell-derived actives help replenish it.

Plant stem cell extracts (typically from rare plant species selected for their extraordinary cellular longevity) are used in formulation for their capacity to protect the skin's own stem cell populations from oxidative and UV damage, and to deliver plant-derived growth factors that support cellular proliferation. Human-derived or mesenchymal stem cell conditioned media — used in clinical cosmeceuticals — carry a richer cargo of the specific growth factors and peptides that fibroblasts and keratinocytes respond to most directly.

Results from stem cell-containing formulas compound over time: they stimulate the production of new cells and proteins, leading to improvements in firmness, texture smoothness, skin radiance, and the rate of surface renewal. Clinical studies have shown measurable increases in collagen I and elastin and decreases in MMP-1 with consistent use of stem cell-derived preparations.

Tranexamic acid is a synthetic derivative of the amino acid lysine, originally developed in medicine for its ability to inhibit plasminogen activation. Its relevance to skincare emerged when researchers discovered that this same mechanism interrupts the UV-triggered signaling cascade that drives excess melanin production — making it one of the most precisely targeted brightening actives available.

Unlike ingredients that simply suppress tyrosinase activity, tranexamic acid works upstream: it blocks the interaction between keratinocytes and melanocytes that follows UV exposure or inflammatory triggers. It also reduces the production of prostaglandins — inflammatory mediators that stimulate pigment-producing cells. The result is a compound that addresses both UV-induced hyperpigmentation and post-inflammatory dark spots through complementary pathways.

Published clinical trials of topical tranexamic acid for melasma have reported statistically significant reductions in pigmentation. It is one of the rare brightening actives with a clean safety profile for sensitive skin — no exfoliation, no irritation, no photosensitivity — making it appropriate for year-round use and suitable for skin types prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation where acids or retinoids might otherwise cause rebound darkening.

L-ascorbic acid is the most bioactive form of vitamin C, but it is notoriously unstable — oxidizing rapidly on contact with light, air, or water to produce compounds that are not only ineffective but potentially harmful. Maya Chia uses four stabilized vitamin C derivatives, each with a distinct advantage, selected to match the chemistry of each formula.

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THD Ascorbate) is an oil-soluble form that penetrates the lipid-rich stratum corneum efficiently, delivering brightness and antioxidant protection with exceptional stability. It is particularly well-suited to oil-based and combination serums where vitamin C has historically been difficult to stabilize.

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP) is water-stable and documented to have activity against Cutibacterium acnes, the bacterium associated with acne — making it particularly well-matched to blemish-prone formulations. Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP) is a highly water-soluble, gentle brightening form that enhances collagen synthesis, addresses photoaging signs, and is tolerated by the most reactive skin.